Thursday, January 5, 2012

New Year's in Seoul, Day Two (Thursday, 12/29/2011)


Note: some of the words in parentheses are easier synonyms of more difficult words, which should hopefully make this easier to read for non-native speakers.

I woke up on Thursday morning a little earlier than I had expected, and since I was all cleaned up from the night before, I decided to try my hand at solving a long-running problem: updating my iPhone.  For whatever reason, my phone refuses to update on my laptop, and I've been trying to get it updated for the past few months with no success.  I had thought that I would need to go to an Apple Store in Tokyo, but when I noticed that the guesthouse's computers had iTunes, I decided to try updating it here.  It was a little tricky, what with the menus being in Korean and all, but I managed to get it updated with relatively little trouble.

This did cause two problems, unfortunately.  Because I hadn't backed up my phone, it erased all my apps (though thankfully not my app data,) so I had to reinstall many of the apps I was planning on using on this trip.  The bigger problem I only discovered when I got home and synced my phone with my laptop – about 90 pictures I took with my phone and two videos were erased because my phone was restored to finalize (finish) the update process on my computer.  I am glad to have this phone problem resolved (for now,) though I'm really going to miss those lost pictures.  UPDATE: thanks to a tip from a friend, I managed to find about 68 of the lost pictures that were taken after I updated on iCloud.  The videos and pictures I took before I updated, however, appear to be gone forever.

Soee was running a little bit late, so instead of meeting at Myeongdong Station she came up to the guesthouse at around 11 AM.  Cultural differences made themselves known again as I tried to greet her with a hug and a peck on the cheek, but she just wanted a handshake.  I later apologized for my faux pas (mistake,) but she told me not to worry about it and that it was just Korean culture not to do those things.  Our first stop was North Seoul Tower, which was at the top of the hill very close to the guesthouse.  The ground was still icy in places from the sleet yesterday, and even though I hadn't slipped on the ice then (though I had joked that I was doing more skating than walking,) I took a spill almost as soon as we started going up the trail.  I wasn't hurt and just got my hand dirty, so I wiped it off and kept going.  It was my only slip the whole time I was in Seoul, though I was more careful from that point on.  My shoes weren't exactly made for icy weather.

We could have taken a bus or lift up to the top, but it was a lovely morning and it wasn't too cold (yet,) so we decided to hike up to the tower.  I'd only eaten a red bean bun at the guesthouse for breakfast, so Soee got out a snack (the amusingly named 'barley yeast hardtack,' a sort of light cracker) for us to munch on (eat) while we walked.  We found out a short while later that we were going the wrong way, and after Soee asked for directions we got on the right path.  As the tower came into view, Soee told me about the rotating French restaurant at the top of the tower.  Apparently, it's very popular for marriage proposals and celebrating major events, and gives the patrons (customers) a magnificent (great) view of Seoul.  Somewhat unfortunately, it was a little too foggy to see much, but it was still a nice view.  I joked that the fog had followed me from San Francisco!


Hyun had mentioned to her family that I had seemed really cold on Wednesday (which I was,) so Soee's mom had her bring an extra jacket for me, as well as an adhesive (sticky) heat pack to put on my shirt.  Even with a scarf, gloves, the heat pack on my stomach, and three jackets, I was still freezing for the entirety (whole) of the trip.  Soee wasn't faring (doing) much better, and often our decisions about what to do were based more on getting out of the cold than anything else.

We also saw an amazing group of fake Christmas trees made from a huge collection of locks and plastic heart-shaped notes.


In Korean culture, if you write a wish on the lock and clip it onto something, your wish will come true.


According to Soee, they started to do this on a nearby series of railings a few years ago.  The railings have almost completely filled up already, so they erected (put up) the frames for the trees to give people more room to make their wishes.


On the way down, I asked about a large, rounded pile of stones; Soee said that it was very similar, with a wish being made every time a stone is placed.


Next, we headed to Namdaemun Market, a famous shopping area that is both gigantic (really big) and mazelike (very confusing.)


I was glad to have Soee showing me around, because I got lost almost immediately.  Another interesting quirk (trait) of Seoul (and maybe Korea in general) is the huge number of street vendors, selling everything from clothes to food, purses to phone accessories and more.  I passed up on a lot of interesting-looking street food because I wanted to find somewhere to sit down and warm up.  Eventually, Soee found the food section and we stopped for lunch.  I was curious about an odd-looking purple sausage that I had seen at a street vendor, so she ordered that and tteokbokki, a chewy rice cake in a spicy red sauce.  Apparently, it's a very popular snack and lunch food, though most foreigners hate it because of the texture.  It reminded me a lot of a savory and spicy mochi, and I rather liked it, which surprised Soee.  Not for the last time, she joked that I must really be Korean!


The sausage turned out to be sundae, a Korean noodle and blood/black pudding sausage.  No relation to the ice cream dish, just a similar name!


After lunch, we explored Namdaemun Market a little more.  I bought a small souvenir for my family, and we pressed (moved) through a massive (really big) underground marketplace full of imported American products, clothes, jewelry, accessories, etc.


We emerged (came out) close to the Bank of Korea, and Soee wanted to show me their currency museum, but unfortunately the exhibit was closed for renovations until January 2nd.  We were close to one end of Cheonggyecheon Waterway, an extensive (big) concrete stream that runs through a large part of Seoul, so we went over to see the enormous (really big) Christmas tree and small artificial waterfall there.  I also threw a coin into a small basin and made a wish.  I know that there is no small amount of wishing in Western culture, but it was interesting to encounter at least four examples of wishing behaviors in Korean culture while I was there.


Our next stop was Gyeongbokgung, a relatively small portion of what was once a sprawling (really big) palace complex for Korea's royalty.  A very large chunk of the complex was destroyed during the Japanese occupation, and there are now roads and buildings where many of the old structures used to be.  We went inside the nearby museum and looked at a map of the original complex, as well as many of the recently-returned Joseon-era books that were removed from Korea during the Japanese occupation.

We had planned on buying tickets to see the rest of the palace structures, but it was just after 4 PM and the ticket office had closed for the day.  Instead, we took a bus to Changgyeonggung, another part of the palace complex.  We spent a couple hours chatting in a small café here because it was so cold outside, and finally left when it closed.  I surprised Soee again by ordering ssanghwacha, a dark, strong, traditional medicinal tea that Hwan had gotten for me the previous day when I mentioned my sore throat.  It's very strong and rich, but healthy and (in my opinion) tasty!

I took the subway a few times during my trip, and I was very impressed with the Korean subway system.  Instead of using paper tickets, you get a plastic card from the ticket machine.  To cover the cost of the card, you pay a 500 KRW deposit in addition to your fare.  After completing your trip, you put your card into a refund machine and get your deposit back.  I didn't know about this the first time and accidentally threw my card away, but after that I got it right.  The ticket machines and signs are all in English, so it's relatively easy to figure out what to do.  Once you have your card, you swipe it over a card reader and go through the turnstile; exiting at your destination deducts the fare from your card.  You can also use a credit card directly on the card reader instead of using it to buy a ticket; credit cards can be used this way on the bus as well.  Another interesting thing they did was put up a plastic wall between the platform and the tunnel, which prevents people from falling into or otherwise going down onto the tracks.  The walls are transparent, so you can see your train coming, and have a separate set of doors that open when the train doors do.  In addition, to help you gauge how long you'll be waiting, they have displays that show you where the next train is.  It's all very high-tech, efficient and well-thought out.


There was an art museum near the café, so we went inside and spent a short time looking at a free exhibit of Korean abstract art.  Neither of us could make heads or tails of it and weren't really all that interested in abstract art, so we didn't stay long.  Our path then took us down Stone Wall Road (so named because of the big stone wall, though I forget the Korean name,) which Soee said was popular with couples because it's said that people who walk the road will never be broken apart.  I'd expressed an interest in trying bulgogi, a well-known Korean beef dish, so we headed back to Myeongdong to find a place that served it.  We were also trying to find a place for Soee to recharge her phone because she had to return a call to her office.  We didn't end up finding any bulgogi – we even got seated at one point and tried to order it off the menu, only to be told that they didn't have it that night – so we went to a nearby Korean barbecue restaurant instead.


Korean barbecue is really very interesting.  In the middle of each table is a slightly tilted griddle, and you're given raw meat, vegetables, kimchi, lettuce leaves, and some dipping sauces.  You put the meat on the high end, the vegetables in the middle and the kimchi on the low end so that the juices from the cooking meat move down and help cook everything else.  Once the ingredients are cooked enough, you use the scissors at the table to cut it all up into manageable (small) pieces.  Then, you put a few things in a lettuce leaf, ball it up and do your best to stuff the whole thing in your mouth.  You can also add garlic, green peppers and a little salad if you like.  It was easily one of the best meals I had in Seoul!

I was feeling pretty worn out after dinner, but I wasn't quite ready to call it a night just yet.  We explored Myeongdong a little more, and in particular got a very nice view of the market streets at night from the top floor of a large department store.  We also worked out our plans for tomorrow: I would check out of the guesthouse and take a taxi to Soee's family's apartment, have lunch there with her mom and Hyun, then hang out until Soee finished work.  We had originally planned on me taking the subway, but after talking about the size of my luggage, Soee decided that a taxi would probably be much easier.  I decided about this time that I was too pooped (tired) to continue, so we went back to the guesthouse and said goodbye for the night.  I wound up moving to a different room that night because, as one of the women put it, there were going to be about six girls in all the other rooms and no other guys.  I didn't really mind, since it meant that I got a room to myself again, though they did stay up pretty late talking and watching TV.  I don't think I got a really good night's sleep the whole time I was in Korea, but I was really happy to get to spend time with Soee again.

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